Archive for November, 2008

Pull me up

Thursday, November 27th, 2008

Tiramisu 

Many of my preferred foods are tastes I acquired overtime. Take wine, for instance, drinking it is a ritual I love so much nowadays, but used to cause me a lot of “yuck faces” in my earlier years. The same goes for Tiramisu. The coffee dipped ladyfingers (I also wasn’t very fond of coffee in the past), the alcoholic taste that was too strong too often, and the fact of it being a cream based dessert, which I didn’t use to like back then - all of these made me not understand what the fuss is all about.

Tiramisu

Tiramisu
The yolks, after beating them by hand

Nowadays it’s one of  my favorite desserts. I think it started 2 years ago, while being on a trip to Tuscany. We ate a zabaglione based dessert which was actually perfect at the wonderful San Jacopo restaurant in Pistoia (Via Crispi 15, Pistoia) . Zabaglione is a traditional Italian dessert, made of egg yolks (heated to a temperature that destroys most bacteria, not to worry), sugar and an alcoholic ingrdient, tipically Marsala wine. It is also the base of the Tiramisu, in classic recipes.  

Tiramisu

Tiramisu
The yolks with Marsala and sugar, before heating

Tiramisu

Tiramisu
The Zabaglione is ready!

In Israel there are many “light” versions for Tiramisu, and I don’t mean from the calories point of view. Some of them omit the eggs, some of them replace the mascarpone with plain white cheese, and more changes that cause the recipe to drift further away from the original one. And as much as I like tweaking with recipes and adapting them, in this case, only the original version for me, please.

Tiramisu

Tiramisu
The final Zabaglione cream, the color of the bowl is a good indication
of the color the final cream should have :)

I’ve made Tiramisu for the first time for a dinner we’ve invited my Mother to. Mom remembered eating the most divine Tiramisu ever in a little restaurant in the marvelous Positano in Italy. I was aiming high, I know.. It was then that I’ve also discovered how easy it is to make Tiramisu, despite of what I thought before. The result was delightful - a classic and so tasty Tiramisu. I really love how the marsala taste goes wonderful with the coffee and cocoa. Although the one in Positano still remained my Mom’s number 1, the one I’ve made entered the honored 2nd place :)

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

Tiramisu

The meaning of Tiramisu is “pull me up”, referring to the coffee and alcohol taste that strike you as soon as the first piece enters your mouth.  At Avi’s office they are playing a “20 questions” game once a week (a sort of a trivia game), and Avi is always proud of the fact that he knows all the answers to the food related questions. A few weeks ago there was a question about the meaning of Tiramisu, and apparently, I’ve never tought him that :( But on the bright side, on your “20 questions” you will surely know the answer :)

Tiramisu

Some notes and tips about this Tiramisu:

* If you don’t have Marsala wine, or don’t like its taste, you can easily replace it with Port or even Brandy.

* When dipping the lady fingers in the coffee, make sure to do it as fast as you can, we don’t want the cookies to be mooshy.

* Coffee - the recipe calls for strong coffee, that’s in order for the coffee taste to remain in the lady fingers, despite the short dipping. How strong should the coffee be? According to your taste. I usually drink my coffee with 1 tsp of coffee in it, so strong for me means 1.5 or 2 times that amount.

* Sprinkle the cocoa powder over the Tiramisu just before serving, otherwise it will become moist from the cream layer, and will not be that attractive - tastewise and lookwise.

* Individual desserts always look better and more appealing to me. You can definitely make this recipe also in individual glasses. If they’re quite small, break the lady fingers to adjust them to the cup’s size.

* Folding the whipped cream into the Zabaglione is required in this recipe. Folding means gentle stirring, and is meant to prevent a beaten batter to lose the air that we’ve worked hard to introduce into it. One way of folding is holding the spatula in a manner that it touches the bottom of the bowl, and begin moving it in a form of the digit 8, while you cover as much of the bowl’s area as you can. After the folding process your batter should be uniform, though, so make sure it is before stopping.

* In order to give your Tiramisu the perfect finishing touch, use Dutch processed cocoa powder. Its taste is mild and wonderful, and it lacks that disturbing biterness of the simpler ones.

Tiramisu / Anna Maria Volpi
For a 20X25 cm pan, or a 20X30 cm pan, for a shorter Tiramisu

Ingredients:
4 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup Marsala wine (see tips for substitution options)
450 gr Mascarpone cheese
250 ml heavy cream
25-30 lady finger cookies (depends on the pan size you’ve chosen, and of the size of the cookies)
1 1/2 cups strong coffee
2 tsp sugar

Dutch processed cocoa powder, for sprinkling on top

Directions:
1. Prepare the coffee in a small bowl, stir in the sugar and let cool.
2. Place the egg yolks in the bowl of a double boiler. Beat them well by hand, until fluffy and their color becomes lighter (about 5 minutes).
3. Add in the sugar and Marsala wine and beat until incorporated.
4. Place the bowl on top of a double boiler and whisk until the zabaglione mixture thickens (this happens just before boiling point - when small bubbles appear).
5. In a separate bowl whip the cream until soft peaks.
6. In a separate bowl mash the mascarpone until creamy.
7. Pour the zabaglione mixture upon the mascarpone and mix until incorporated.
8. Add in the whipped cream, and fold it into the zabaglione-mascarpone mixture (see tips about folding).
9. Assemble the Tiramisu: Lightly soak the ladyfingers in the coffee, one at a time and each one from both sides, arrange them as the bottom layer in the pan. Spread half of the cream over the lady fingers, then soak and arrange another layer of lady fingers, and spread the remaining cream mixture upon them.
10. Chill for at least 3 hours before serving.
11. Just before serving, sprinkle with cocoa powder. Serve within 48 hours from the preparation time, after that the lady fingers will become too mooshy.

 

Never tasted a better one - sweet Challah for Shabat

Friday, November 21st, 2008

Challah 

There is something magical about Friday afternoons. The street’s commotion is slowly fading away, and is replaced with tender and soft clouds of calmness, that descend all over town. Cooking aromas rise from the neighbours, letting our senses imagine what great meals are being cooked for the Friday night family dinner. All this atmosphere excites me a great deal, and that’s one of the reasons Friday afternoons are my preferred baking time.

Challah

Challah

Challah
The shaped challah, before rising

Challah
And after rising… chubby and cute

In my early years I’ve never been very much of a family person, and most of the time I used to look for outdoor activities. And then there was this moment when I started enjoying and appreciating that nice family time at dinners, and now I’m a big fan. Those holiday times, when folks at work are constantly complaining about that family overdose - these times are heavenly for me!

Challah

I’ve made this challah for the first time a couple of years ago, when we were about to go and dine with Avi’s family. Everyone, including me, loved it so much that there hasn’t been a dinner I haven’t brought it to ever since. And though I found many tempting challah recipes along the way, I wasn’t able to bring myself to try them, knowing that I’ve already got the winner in my hands.

Challah

Some notes and tips about the challah:

* You can use this dough also for making sweet rolls, which you can shape as you please - as regular round rolls, or in an 8 shape, a knot shape or simply braided, as the big challah shown here in the pics.

* Extra crunchiness - Avi prefers his challah with raisins. But this bread will also welcome dried cranberries, or walnuts or even chocolate chips. Add them to the dough after it has finished the first rising process, and you’ve taken all the air out of it.

Challah

Challah

* The recipe indicates to brush the bread with beaten egg before inserting it into the oven. This gives it a great intense color and contributes to a crunchier crust. But there are times when I prefer it less golden and less crunchy - and then I simply brush it with water, instead of the egg.

* Yeast - I know quite a lot of people that have yeastofobia. This may have been a reasonable fear 10 years ago, when the yeast weren’t of the quality they make them nowadays, and you had to jumpstart them using some sugar and water. Today there’s no need for that, and also no need for your fear. As long as you use the yeast before their “use by” date, and follow the recipe (that will usually tell you to add the yeast to the dough ingredients apart from the oil and salt, which could kill them), there’s really nothing to be afraid of.

* Yeast 2 - Most of the time I’m using active dry yeast, simply because they last longer. If I’m using just a part of a yeast package, I seal it as much as I can, and refrigerate it. That’s how I found it best to keep them.

* Converting fresh yeast to active dry yeast - you should use a third of the quantity of fresh yeast specified in the recipe when you want to use dry yeast instead.  If you want to convert the other way around - multiply the dry yeast quantity specified in the recipe by 2.5-3 in order to use fresh yeast.

Sweet Challah / Carine Goren
Makes 2 challah breads

Ingredients:
1 kg all-purpose flour
50 gr fresh yeast (or 17 gr active dry ones)
3/4 cup sugar (or 1/2 a cup if you prefer it less sweet)
2 eggs
1 3/4 - 2 cups lukewarm water
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 Tbsp salt

1 egg, beaten, for brushing before baking (optional, see tips)
sesame

Directions:
1. Place the flour in a bowl and mix the yeast into it.
2. Add in the rest of the ingredients and knead at medium speed for about 10-12 minutes, until the dough is shiny, and sticks a bit to the bottom of the bowl, but isn’t sticky all in all.
3. Grease the surface of the dough with a little oil, cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let rise until the dough doubles its volume.
4. Divide the dough into 2 even parts. Divide each part into 3 even parts, and roll each one of the into a stripe, and braid the 3 stripes of each challah together. If you want to do a more elaborate braid, made out of 5 stripes instead of 3, divide each one of the 2 dough parts into 5 even stripes. Then give numbers to the stripes from 1 to 5, pinch all the 5 stripes together on one of the ends, then put no. 1 over no. 3, then enumerate the stripes again in the new order and put (the new) no. 2 over no. 3. Enumerate the stripes again and put no.5 over no. 2, enumerate again and repeat the whole process (1 over 3 and so forth).
5. Place the shaped breads on a pan lined with parchment paper, and let rise until it doubles its volume.
6. Brush the breads with the beaten egg or with water (see tips), scatter sesame all over them, and bake in an oven preheated to 350F (180C) for about 35 minutes, or until golden (on all sides, bottom as well). Another good indication for knowing that the bread we’ve baked is ready, is to knock on its bottom, if the sound it makes is hollow, you can take it out of the oven.
7. Cool and serve.

 

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche

Sunday, November 16th, 2008

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche 

Crustless pies and me are not good friends. I ignore their existence and they ignore mine, and in my eyes, this is a great relationship in this case. It’s just that a person that loves pastries in all shapes and forms such as myself, simply cannot enjoy just the filling of what could be a great quiche.

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche

For Sharon’s (my sister in law as of last Wednesday) bachelorette party, I was asked to bring a crustless pie. Instinctively I started looking for a good quiche recipe. Since the primacy and recency effects work so well, I’ve decided to make this goat cheese and dried tomatoes quiche, which I last made only a week before that, when 2 very good friends of hours - Hadas and Yaron - came over for lunch.

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche

This quiche recipe caught my eye in a very good Israeli pastry cookbook called “Sheshet pastries”. I was caught mostly because of its beautiful photo in the book, but also because of how simple it is to make it look so beautiful. Also, it tastes wonderful, and the recipe is very accurate, as are all the recipes I’ve tried from that book.

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche

Some notes and tips about this quiche:

* Dried tomatoes - in Israel we have 2 kinds - marinated in olive oil or plain and simple dried tomatoes. Both are great for this quiche, but if you use the plain ones, marinate or brush them with a little olive oil before using them, so the ones that peek out from the filling will not burn during baking.

* Tips about making shortcrust can be found in the tips section of this post.

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche

Goats cheese and dried tomatoes quiche / “Sheshet Pastries” cookbook
Makes a 10 inch quiche

Ingredients:
For the crust:
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 flat tsp salt
150 gr cold butter, diced
1 egg
1-2 Tbsp water, if needed

For the filling:
250 ml heavy cream
3 eggs
1 Tbsp all-purpose flour
salt
black pepper
1/2 cup dried tomatoes, chopped
200 gr soft goats cheese, sliced
cherry tomatoes brushed with olive oil, for decoration

Directions:
1. Prepare the crust: Process flour, salt and butter in short pulses in the food processor, until crumbly. Add in the egg and process in pulses only until a dough is formed. If the mixture is still crumbly, add in the water and process in pulses just until a dough is formed.
2. Flaten the dough, and form a flat circle out of it, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for one hour.
3. Roll out the dough to a 1/2 cm thick sheet, cover the tart pan with it. Using a fork, make even holes over the whole bottom surface. Freeze for 20 minutes.
4. Preheat oven to 350F (180C).
5. Blind bake the crust for about 10-15 minutes (it’s recommended to do it with some baking weights, for more info see tips here), until the crust only starts becoming golden.
6. Take the crust out of the oven and let cool. Meanwhile prepare the filling:
7. Beat the heavy cream together with the eggs. Sift the flour over the mixture, and beat until the mixture is uniform. Add in salt and pepper and mix them well.
8. Place the chopped dried tomatoes and sliced cheese onto the crust. Pour the egg mixture above it and decorate with the cherry tomatoes.
9. Bake for about 35 minutes, or until the filling is firm and golden.

 

Signs of autumn - part two

Tuesday, November 4th, 2008

Vegetables soup 

Every year when winter is right around the corner, Avi declares happily: “Let the soup season begin!”. This statement makes us both very happy, thinking that we are going to make dozens, if not hundreds of soups this upcoming winter. A few months later reality slaps us right in the face, realizing that the number of soups we’ve made isn’t the one we hoped for.

Vegetables soup

We’ve broken a new record last winter, when Michael, a friend from work who once worked as a cook for some of the better restaurants in Tel-Aviv, lent me the “Soup Bible“. As the name implies, this really IS a soup bible, with over 200 soup recipes, one looking yummier and more tempting than the other. Would you believe me when I say that we didn’t even try out one recipe from that book?! This year is gonna be different! (Yeah, yeah, we say that every year)…

Vegetables soup

Vegetables soup

Vegetables soup

Vegetables Soup

A few weeks ago, I met a very very good friend of mine, with whom I’ve lost contact a couple of years ago. My fault. Yep, sadly I’m not so good at keeping in touch, even with people who are important to me, like Roni. A lot has happened in both our lives ever since, so Roni invited me to hers and her husband’s place, to catch up a bit. Since no social gathering is complete without something tasty to chew on, Roni offered me this great vegetables and groats soup she had made. I obviously asked for the recipe, and this soup was the one to open our soup season. And what a great opening it was!

Vegetables Soup

The soup is real easy to make, very rich in flavor and vegetables, and the groats make it so thick and comforting - wonderful for a cold autumn evening. Go on, make it, and may us all have a great winter!

Some notes and tips about the soup:

* Roni says that you could add even more vegetables - according to your taste and cravings - such as pumpkin, zucchini, turnip, beetroot, etc… Just make sure to slice the vegetables into relatively big pieces, so they won’t fall apart during the cooking process.

* Chicken soup - this recipe calls for it, and let’s face it, we aren’t always up to making 2 soups for finally ending up with one. What I usually do is use powdered chicken soup and mix it in hot water - it does the trick wonderfully and quickly. If the MSG in those things is bothering you, nowadays they sell a natural version of those powdered soups - containing natural ingredients only. I use it and find it just fine.

* To my opinion, some alcohol addition can boost almost any dish. If you’re with me on that one, feel free to add 4-5 Tbsp of white wine between stages 5 and 6 in the recipe.

Vegetables and Groats Soup / Roni Schmitz
Makes 4-6 portions

Ingredients:
1 big onion
100 gr tomato paste
1 tsp sugar
2 medium sized potatoes, cubed into big cubes
3 big carrots, cut to stripes, lengthwise (we love carrots, so I’ve put some more)
1 parsley root, peeled and cut into quarters
1 celery root, peeled and cut into quarters
2 celery stalks, including leaves
1/2 parsley bundle (about 10 rich branches)
1/2 dill bundle
2-3 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup groats
chicken soup, until all vegetables are covered (I needed about 2 liters)
salt
pepper

Directions:
1. Fry onion until starts to become golden.
2. Add in the tomato paste, stir, and let fry for several minutes, but make sure it doesn’t start to burn.
3. Add in the sugar and stir.
4. Add in all the ingredients on the list, except (and not including) the garlic. Stir well.
5. Add in the garlic and keep frying for a few more minutes.
6. Add in the chicken soup, until all the other ingredients are well covered. Add the groats.
7. Cook on medium flame until the vegetables soften. Lower the flame to the minimum and keep cooking for 30 more minutes.
8. Pour into serving plates and serve, recommended with some chopped parsley above it, or some chopped chives.